Taiwan top five must do list!

Traveling to Taiwan? Don't miss these spots!
With only two weeks of travel, I know I'm missing landmarks or must see's, but from my experience, I can highly recommend the following for anybody traveling to Taiwan, otherwise known to the locals as "Formosa" meaning "Beautiful Island".  You could say the list is in order of priority for must do's, but any of these are don't misses in my book! 

Typical view inside Taroko Gorge - near Silks Place Hotel

1. Taroko Gorge National Park
This marbled canyon of tropical fauna and steep breathtaking views is still the all time favorite for me of the entire 2 weeks. Try renting a bike from either Silks Place where we stayed one night, or near the gate entrance from the Hualien side at a Giant Bicycle Station. I suggest a bike ride thru the tunnels and S turns early in the morning before the double decker buses take over, or just take a side hike. Staying in the Leader Hotel is more like a quiet serene lodge. You'll be immersed in nature, possibly see monkeys. Had to be dragged out of there, as I wanted to breath it in, sit and watch the low clouds change the landscape every few minutes. See my entry's on our bike ride and stay <here> and <here> 

View from Wen Wan Resort at Sun Moon Lake

2. Sun Moon Lake

For us Californians, I suppose Tahoe would be a comparison, but it doesn't really compare. Similarities stop at the fact that it's a lake in the middle of beautiful mountains with colorful water. Taking a bicycle ride again, or perhaps rent a scooter for a fun loop around the 33km meandering Moon Lake Road. Stop at the Ci Hen Pagoda. Either arriving there via a tourist boat or via scooter or bike, then hike up the 700 meter path to capture the view from the top - where you can ring the bell. Apparently this is a perfect location to spot the annual appearance of fireflies as well. We were put up in one of the newest and highest end hotels there, and I imagine other accommodations have the same stunning views, at maybe a lesser "gold leaved elevator" price. But I can say, with heartfelt appreciation for the rare luxury, the outstanding service and food and room amenities, perhaps for a special occasion, do consider staying at The Wen Wan if you can swing the $700 room price tag (for a jr. deluxe rm). Small villages host dance recitals and markets and varied dining outside your hotel choice. (blog entry to be posted on our group's adventure there soon).

Kate LaCroix rides on one of many Taitung County bike paths

3. Taitung County "biking heaven"

This city boasts the first, and famous, bike path that the cooperative of Taiwan's Transportation and Tourism departments along with Giant's Cycling Foundation completed. The larger of completed network of bike paths that will eventually circumnavigate the entire island! 2010 is in the middle of a 4 year plan and 4 billion dollar investment to build the infrastructure needed. (Yes, I just said 4 BILLION dollars with a straight face). This landmark, original path built, even has tolls for the tourist or passerby (locals can use for free). You'll ride through terraced rice fields, under trellises, near small villages, in the backyards of local farmers. Bathrooms, parks and cycling stations within only a few kilometers make it an easy level for beginners to enthusiasts to take in the landscape. Our accommodations were first in a canyon that boasts natural healing hotsprings at the Royal Chihpen Hotel. I have to admit I didn't really get to enjoy it in my jet lagged state, with late arrival and early departure. What I did use was the japanese style soaking tub with actual spring water piped into each room's bath, quite lovely! The 2nd location that we actually rode to and from, via bike lanes and paths, was the gorgeous Papago Resort. I was able to enjoy the beautiful pool, and oversized modern, bright and beautiful room there! One of my favorite blog entries during trip with pictures of the paths <here>. 

Starting path ride towards Hualien City,  from Hotel Bay View

4. Hualien - Coastal bike paths and dining

Despite our group's arrival at the same time as Typhoon Megi's rain and wind, we road the bike path from our Hotel Bay View to it's end the other side of Hualien. The path was first paved in marble bricks (rather slippery in the rain, but beautiful), mostly followed the coastline, occasionally moving through an industrial cement plant or factory's property, into small neighborhood villages, parks and then the city itself. Our Hotel Bay View, was new, beautiful, and charming with compact rooms, but views of the roaring Ocean below - and Agean style decor. I do suggest eating at the Moon House restaurant, if you can find it, inland, between Taitung and Hualien in the "Rift Valley".  Ride in the rain with me in blog entry <here>

Author Beverly Garrity,  at Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Buildings

5. Taipei - Markets and landmarks

A clean and friendly city that has more history than I could absorb, more markets to explore, and stunning accommodations and dining, that it would take months to visit. A short list of to-do's there would be to visit the National Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall. Memorial has gardens, buildings and museum to explore. Soak in a 360 degree view of the city and take a ride up the worlds fastest lift, to the top of what was the World's tallest building at Taipei 101. A night market is a must, I suggest more than one - the busy bustle of locals displaying their wares, local cuisine, open late. Stimulating with creative marketing to people watching and exploring, a must do. A couple entries in my blog from Taipei City <here> and <here>.

Taiwan train ride with pro's and Taipei sightseeing

Day 8 Taiwan: Sound bites, Dining and Ferris Wheels

The press conference (October 21, 2010) at Taipei's Train Station ended with a mass march to the train cars Taiwan had newly renovated with fabulous bicycle accommodations. Each car was equipped with bicycle racks so you can sit in the same space, and keep an eye on your bike. Our media group was invited to join the Rabobank team in their car, as we had requested an opportunity to interview Óscar Freire and/or Robbie Hunter of the Garmin pro team. Óscar is a top sprinter with 3 World Championships, an honor that only a few elite cyclists can share. 

Obligatory groupie shot of blogger - Beverly Garrity and famed racer Óscar Freire

This car had not only the team and it's staff, but our friends - the Taiwan dignitaries that we were again so fortunate to have access to. Taiwan really treated us as VIP's - and I hope we can repay the favor with our outlets back here at home, to spread knowledge of what a fantastic destination this country is! Since the TV cameras of Asian media swarmed our man of the hour, we waited our turn. 


In the mean time - as I mentioned in a previous post -  I didn't waste my time, as I was there between the bike racks and the seats with Erik Dekker.  Dutch like his team sponsor, Erik is now the team manager, and was once a force to be reckoned, an Olympic medal holder, followed by many wins and stage wins in pro tours (in 2000 he was voted the "most aggressive rider").  A charming fellow who hesitated when I asked him how he felt about leaving Colnago Bicycles behind, and moving to Giant Bicycles as their main sponsor and equipment provider. (I explained my query came from my own personal connection with Colnago. See my work/shameless plug here.) He clearly got my question, and his face let us know he missed the famed Italian bike frame with European heart.  He also - realizing the conversation would be an interview, not just sharing words in a sweaty humid car with some Americans - sincerely spoke of Giant Bicycles quality, and responsive and stiff frames. 


The line of the day from him, however, is that after we all exclaimed how darn hot it was in the humid car that made us all sweat like we were sharing a sauna - was that I smelled. I responded with "but good right?!"... and he said he didn't say that. We all had some good laughs, and we could tell they were sad to see us exit at the first stop.

Mark Blacknell, interviews Óscar Freire as Kate LaCroix records the conversation.

"My future plan is to enjoy the present now" - Óscar Freire

Before the train stopped though; there was the headliner to interview, and our very own interviewer from Podium Cafe & Blacknell.net, Mark Blacknell, was already several questions in, before I noticed he snagged a slot between the TV cameras. I snuck up as well to join the party, and just in time for this precious quote when he was asked about his racing future, after they discussed how the tours have many more crashes now. Significantly different than stage races in the past he noted. So his response to questions about his future? "My future plan is to enjoy the present now."

Our brief time with the Rabobank team proved to be informative and candid (including time with our new Taiwan dignitary friends). I think we all wanted to stay, spend more time, and certainly want to return.

We made a quick exit at the first train stop, as we were off to tour Taipei for one more night.  The plan, after that, was to rejoin all the racers on the train on the East Coast (for the Taiwan Cup). They would train down now, we would bus over later.  Or so we thought. Our new girlfriend Megi - had different ideas. 

The nearby Typhoon Megi not only brought rain and high winds, it stranded hundreds where it hit the hardest.  Worse, it brought mud slides and buildings were actually collapsing... exactly where we were supposed to be. The Taiwan Cup had to be cancelled, the racers were stranded less than an hour after we left the train.  They stopped, as the tracks were washed out or blocked.  And most tragic of all, lives were lost elsewhere on the island. The next day when the race was supposed to start, we were planning on a bike path ride to a Buddhist Temple in Hualien. The very temple collapsed, and killed 7.   

We all felt not only deep sorrow for the victims of the natural disaster, but for our new friends trying so hard to promote Taiwan, and have this well organized cycling festival, not be able to come to it's fullest fruition. Not surprisingly, they handled it with grace. Quickly they found new hotels for us (as well as all of the Taiwan Cup riders) and allowed us to see a part of Taiwan we'd not expected to see.


But I get ahead of myself, as we were all still in Taipei, and the news of the race cancellation hadn't even come through yet, as we were about to tour Taipei 101. (Building Wikipedia facts <here>, or official Taipei 101 website <here>), then check into the Grand Victoria Hotel. Dinner at a unique artistic restaurant "The Five-Dime", then a spontaneous rain-defying ride on the Miramar ferris wheel. 

Celebrated as the World's tallest building from 2004-2010, and remains landmark feat in architecture and design, Taipei 101 is both beautiful and symbolic. She boasts the fastest lift at 37 seconds to go from the 1st to 89th floor! I noticed Taiwanese are so aesthetically oriented, that the view from their famous building affected the cityscape below, propelling them to pay attention and decorate rooftops. This was something I was particularly impressed with.  I always wonder why roofs are so poorly neglected, coming from one who loves flying, and seeing the world from above. 

Five-Dime restaurant was designed by Hsieh Li-Hsiang with every nook and cranny either sprayed concrete - or collected items of oversized bolts or eye-hooks to rusty metal and mosaics, or driftwood and ceramics - all organically arranged.  I'd never seen so many dishes on one table. This made the ceramic artist in me very happy. The food was amazing, even the limited number that were vegetarian (as I was eating) were outstanding. It was during this dinner that we found out that the train filled with professional cyclists never made it to Hualien.  Rather, it only made it another 45min down the tracks (from where we departed) before stranding all its passengers. 

After hearing the news that the Taiwan Cup was cancelled, and the road was out, we knew our plans would be changing soon as well. No longer could we bus down to Hualien with the roads out.  Typhoon Megi had spoken.  So our amazing guide John was busy making alternative plans, soon we would find out, to get us to another stunning location on the island. 

In the meantime, since the night markets were closed (because of the rain) we thought it was a fine time to see if the 70 meter high ferris wheel was in operation.  And yes, my friends, it was. Nobody else was brave (stupid?) enough to go up in it, but four of us piled into bucket with a clear floor, and went for the almost 20 minute spin above the Miramar mall.  We were laughing the entire time, at the fact that we likely - in a typhoon - ought to not be there. But if you look at the history so far, we were being taken care of - and somehow, a safe and good energy surrounded our group, be it Taiwanese good luck, or just dumb luck, we were having a blast, still, even thought all our clothing was soaking wet.

Next stop: factory visits to SASO's carbon manufacturing and Giant Bicycles' high-end bike frame facility, then to Sun Moon Lake!