Taiwan top five must do list!

Traveling to Taiwan? Don't miss these spots!
With only two weeks of travel, I know I'm missing landmarks or must see's, but from my experience, I can highly recommend the following for anybody traveling to Taiwan, otherwise known to the locals as "Formosa" meaning "Beautiful Island".  You could say the list is in order of priority for must do's, but any of these are don't misses in my book! 

Typical view inside Taroko Gorge - near Silks Place Hotel

1. Taroko Gorge National Park
This marbled canyon of tropical fauna and steep breathtaking views is still the all time favorite for me of the entire 2 weeks. Try renting a bike from either Silks Place where we stayed one night, or near the gate entrance from the Hualien side at a Giant Bicycle Station. I suggest a bike ride thru the tunnels and S turns early in the morning before the double decker buses take over, or just take a side hike. Staying in the Leader Hotel is more like a quiet serene lodge. You'll be immersed in nature, possibly see monkeys. Had to be dragged out of there, as I wanted to breath it in, sit and watch the low clouds change the landscape every few minutes. See my entry's on our bike ride and stay <here> and <here> 

View from Wen Wan Resort at Sun Moon Lake

2. Sun Moon Lake

For us Californians, I suppose Tahoe would be a comparison, but it doesn't really compare. Similarities stop at the fact that it's a lake in the middle of beautiful mountains with colorful water. Taking a bicycle ride again, or perhaps rent a scooter for a fun loop around the 33km meandering Moon Lake Road. Stop at the Ci Hen Pagoda. Either arriving there via a tourist boat or via scooter or bike, then hike up the 700 meter path to capture the view from the top - where you can ring the bell. Apparently this is a perfect location to spot the annual appearance of fireflies as well. We were put up in one of the newest and highest end hotels there, and I imagine other accommodations have the same stunning views, at maybe a lesser "gold leaved elevator" price. But I can say, with heartfelt appreciation for the rare luxury, the outstanding service and food and room amenities, perhaps for a special occasion, do consider staying at The Wen Wan if you can swing the $700 room price tag (for a jr. deluxe rm). Small villages host dance recitals and markets and varied dining outside your hotel choice. (blog entry to be posted on our group's adventure there soon).

Kate LaCroix rides on one of many Taitung County bike paths

3. Taitung County "biking heaven"

This city boasts the first, and famous, bike path that the cooperative of Taiwan's Transportation and Tourism departments along with Giant's Cycling Foundation completed. The larger of completed network of bike paths that will eventually circumnavigate the entire island! 2010 is in the middle of a 4 year plan and 4 billion dollar investment to build the infrastructure needed. (Yes, I just said 4 BILLION dollars with a straight face). This landmark, original path built, even has tolls for the tourist or passerby (locals can use for free). You'll ride through terraced rice fields, under trellises, near small villages, in the backyards of local farmers. Bathrooms, parks and cycling stations within only a few kilometers make it an easy level for beginners to enthusiasts to take in the landscape. Our accommodations were first in a canyon that boasts natural healing hotsprings at the Royal Chihpen Hotel. I have to admit I didn't really get to enjoy it in my jet lagged state, with late arrival and early departure. What I did use was the japanese style soaking tub with actual spring water piped into each room's bath, quite lovely! The 2nd location that we actually rode to and from, via bike lanes and paths, was the gorgeous Papago Resort. I was able to enjoy the beautiful pool, and oversized modern, bright and beautiful room there! One of my favorite blog entries during trip with pictures of the paths <here>. 

Starting path ride towards Hualien City,  from Hotel Bay View

4. Hualien - Coastal bike paths and dining

Despite our group's arrival at the same time as Typhoon Megi's rain and wind, we road the bike path from our Hotel Bay View to it's end the other side of Hualien. The path was first paved in marble bricks (rather slippery in the rain, but beautiful), mostly followed the coastline, occasionally moving through an industrial cement plant or factory's property, into small neighborhood villages, parks and then the city itself. Our Hotel Bay View, was new, beautiful, and charming with compact rooms, but views of the roaring Ocean below - and Agean style decor. I do suggest eating at the Moon House restaurant, if you can find it, inland, between Taitung and Hualien in the "Rift Valley".  Ride in the rain with me in blog entry <here>

Author Beverly Garrity,  at Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Buildings

5. Taipei - Markets and landmarks

A clean and friendly city that has more history than I could absorb, more markets to explore, and stunning accommodations and dining, that it would take months to visit. A short list of to-do's there would be to visit the National Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall. Memorial has gardens, buildings and museum to explore. Soak in a 360 degree view of the city and take a ride up the worlds fastest lift, to the top of what was the World's tallest building at Taipei 101. A night market is a must, I suggest more than one - the busy bustle of locals displaying their wares, local cuisine, open late. Stimulating with creative marketing to people watching and exploring, a must do. A couple entries in my blog from Taipei City <here> and <here>.

Pathways and Patterns. Leave Hualien for Taipei

(Part one of Day 7) Our last moments in the Gorge were via our bus, which didn't fade my childlike enthusiasms for spotting waterfalls high up on cliff hillsides that exposed themselves as the clouds eased off. One of our group had a stand-off with a monkey in the morning, others went monkey hunting along secret pathways and came up empty, but full with the memories of seeing the clouds lift over the Pagoda, hillsides and our modern hotel (Silks Place) in the foreground. I found myself introspective as we zig zagged through this magical canyon of marble. The group packed up from the hotel with anticipation of a contrast to our current environment, one filled with professional cyclists interactions, bike shops, and the hustle of a dense city full of culture.

(photo by Mark Blacknell www.blacknell.net)

First stop before flying out was literally 10 minutes at a beach. Only a long walk or easy bike ride from the previous stay at Bay View Hotel in Hualien. But now, a weather phenomenon, it was calm. "Typhoon Megi" still circled nearby, and we had no idea that she'd be affecting the rest of our trips itinerary - in a big way. So far we were mostly on schedule, with a few cancellations such as real river rafting, paragliding and some hikes we'd hope to do were closed do to rock slides in the canyon itself.

IF YOU HAD 10 MINUTES

Our guide John gave us these whole 10 minutes at a beautiful beach full of small grey and white flat rocks, with calm small waves hitting shore. Immensely different from any of our water views before, including waves crashing breakwaters 3-4 stories tall and spray that looked like Old Faithful in Yellowstone. What to do when you are given such a deadline to experience a beautiful coastline... leave a sculpture behind for the next visitors. Rocks had white streaks of perhaps marble or quartz. Graphic lines... strings... that were asking to be formed into something. An Andy Goldworthy inspired pattern was my obvious choice to leave behind. A dash to the water for my ritual of splashing salt water on my face for a quick baptism was not the smartest, as my sandals remained wet with salt water for the rest of the journey. It was worth the short visit, the surprise of finally seeing the sun and some blue sky, with gorgeous blue green warm water as a back drop. A welcome change, even for the limited moment we had.

(Mark Villegas spends his time slot proving his skills go beyond just cycling)

(More often than not, you find yourself walking on a tapestry of marble scraps, arranged artistically, yet going unnoticed because your attention was up at the views of mountains, tree's and ocean. Apparently we were in the land of Marble. Finally saw signs of the quarry's and mountain top mining from the air on our flight.)

FLY TO TAIPEI

The airport was nearby, and practically abandoned. We tipped our bus driver for the last few days of shuttling us around, and walked through the polished marble echo chamber of simply the most empty airport of it's size and design I'd ever waited in. The short flight was lined with beautiful views to the left of the East Coastline, we were able to see the entrance to the Gorge where we just spent time, and the highway that is barely etched into the side of the steep coastline. Luckily this time we weren't forced to sit in front of the prisoners... but the flight attendants were like mean Nun's at a Catholic school with constant reprimanding if we used our cameras. Apparently we couldn't even take pictures of the coastline. We knew not to at the airport, as it shared the space with a military base, but the worry we'd use our phones instead of just the video or cameras became laughable as they would appear out of no-where, as soon as we were tempted. Luckily I got a few pictures before the verbal slaps. Otherwise they smiled and were beautiful attendants, with pleasant demeanors. I imagine, they acted under strict orders to keep us "in-line".

As soon as we approached the Northern tip near Taipei... it was obvious rain was back in our picture. Bumpy approach, windy, rainy gray. None of us seemed to mind, our gear wasn't dry yet, and it was still warm on this tropical feeling island. Plans to visit Taipei 101- which was once the World's Tallest Building, now the 2nd to their disappointment, was postponed in hopes of a clear view tomorrow.

AS LONG AS WE ARE HERE... LET'S EAT!

Schedule changes were normal - and we all went with the flow, and knew it could only mean a different adventure. Visiting bike shops once they opened for the day, became the new mission, along with experiencing my favorite meal of the entire trip, at a Japanese restaurant for sushi, Saki and tasty treats. (hopefully this map will help you find it on your own visit!)

A modern restaurant with fabulous interior design, including a fountain with the same rocks we'd just left behind at the pebble filled beach. Bottles used for chandeliers were right up my repurposing ally, they were lovely and modern! Walls of bottles lit in red and blue lights, stone sinks. Tasty food other than the standard "Cabbage and Seaweed" (actually some kind of greens I called seaweed) - that had already grown old on my self induced vegetarian diet w/ sprinkles of fish mixed in.

Well satisfied and perhaps buzzed from the Saki we went to experience foot rubs for a treat (www.kinraku.com.tw) while we awaited bike shops to open. It was still early, and finding things to do before a hotel could take us, and out of the rain, was John's mission. We loved our options, other than fatigue setting in, I still craved a good 1/2 day at a hotel to get caught up on blogging, and sleep. I never did get that 1/2 day at a hotel, and it's okay as the group wouldn't let me opt out of any of the "events" - and I was glad to go whenever I had fought the urge to just stay and sleep. I really didn't want to miss a thing!

FRIENDS

Everything was interesting, everything was clean (for the most part) and everything remarkable! The group was growing close and caring for each other's well being. We laughed so hard each day deeming any Pilates unnecessary. Between Canadian Niamh's sense of sarcasm and bewilderment that we would want to ride bikes far or hotels of our caliper didn't have bars, to Bike Hugger Mark's rise and falls of sugar and adorable fixation to metal objects - anodized or not, then Blacknell's observations and sometimes embarrassment of us, mixed with dry wit and great sense of direction, and finally to Kate's enthusiasm and high energy including singing with me at other's expenses... I was in some kind of school girls dream of hanging with my new best friends. We even got John, our guide, to sing his first ever English song he learned as a boy "You are my Sunshine"!

Didn't bring enough swimsuits

Remnants of a Typhoon (Meg?!) in Philippines are making this soaked adventure. Only 2 sports bras in my luggage are like soaked wash rags, I'm down to my one swimsuit for under garments. Seriously!

HUALIEN (yesterday - day 4)

Arrived late at night, after several u-turns, 2 instruction queries and driving along dizzying narrow roads with troughs of water like flumes that line every street - in Hualien. Dinner was on a hillside before that - and apparently it was hard to navigate to and from. But a stunning view, and family style food that was very very good, and like most other cultures than our own, with heads and feet still attached. I'm eating vegetarian on the trip - with some fish sprinkled in. This is apparently unusual - at least for my guide, and every day he asks and points towards me... "shall I order a special Vegetarian meal for you?" For some reason it's not as complicated for Mark Blacknell - who is a vegetarian... but for me, since it was a surprise, our guide hasn't gotten used to the idea that I TOO need to stay away from mystery meat.

Anyhow... I digress... that drive was long but fun w/ my comrades. The hotel is obviously new and geared towards cycling tourism, and has an Aegan theme with marble and white walls. A beautiful place to lay our heads after a brief walk to the sea... which is yards away.

Well yards like maybe 50 yards? Anyhow... the waves ARE HUGE, and it's a shore break that would warn the craziest of surfers. I make the mistake in the morning of opening up the wind tunnel causing window... and while skyping my husband a rainstorm comes through... and I notice later that all things within a yard of said window... have puddles in or on or around them.

I'm making this a long story... so here is the nutshell while I have some wireless connection to tell it. A "GIANT SHOP" - like they all are - is nearby. It's raining hard, and we go there to get bikes. Then we ride in torrential rain along the seashore into the city of Hualien and back This is what we saw, and it was photographed between heavy heavy rain and wind gusts that made me feel I was riding at 14% grade up a hill. We were all smiles - as it was funny, fun, and beautiful in many parts, the ocean was seriously... I'm going to use George's word from Seinfield... FIERCE!

Checking out the merchandising of Topeak and Cateye on the walls of the shop. Making sure I represent Cupertino in my jersey from Vance.

(the owner... and yes I know him :-) which is a local joke btw.)

Self portrait - the rain is super hard, and it's difficult to catch this.

I'm so stoked I have a water proof camera!

Took a side trip up a paver/tile strewn path

to an abandoned who-knows-what (old military spot or former park)

Path diverts thru a shanty town of traditional housing

and narrow ally's along the ocean briefly.

Pathway leaves seawall to cut under a huge factory - perhaps cement plant,

lined with Escalade sized granite chunks - and flooding low spots.

Here Mark Blacknell is riding through stream of runoff.

Sure - why not?! Sign points to ugly construction and industry.

CONTRAST-BIKE PATHS

Now that I've ridden several of these paths, and attended the opening ceremony with the officials that are driven to create these recreational paradises, some opinions have come to mind. It's a paradox of the tourism bureau promoting this and photo opportunities, parks and paths that have finished areas with marble... and signage - are right next to under construction, ugly, third world Country looking areas that stink of the city dump. Saw a rat running across the street and into my path just as I was pondering this contrast. Beautiful "Giant Cycling Stations" juxtapositioned (is that a word?), to enormous debri. The main constant is friendly people, and perfect temperatures.

The beautiful parts of the path are paradisal.

Shanty homes right on the path are still shining with creative pride in their collected junk.

DROVE TO TAROKO

Well we scurried off from the Bay View Hotel - to drive to Taroko Gorge. This is truly the most beautiful breath taking place I have ever seen in my life. And it deserves it's own blog entry. This picture shows where I'm typing from right now. I'm the center cabin- the room on the right.

If for any reason I die in the typhoon's torrential downpour that cause a flash flood today as we ride down the Gorge's canyon dangerously narrow roads and stunning tunnels. Just know that I'm so incredibly happy, and am in the most beautiful place in the world - and that I am lucky!

Taiwan Cycling Festival Tour Plan

Arriving October 14th in Taipei.

We'll be transported to Taitung for 3 different nights to see 3 different hotels and some "short" rides of 60km and 80km (yikes for me!) and hopefully river rafting!

Then bussed up to Hualien for a 40k and then 26k ride, 2 nights in 2 different lovely accommodations before heading to Taipei. This includes the International Cycling Team visit and press conference in Taipei.

We'll bus back to Hualien for a 50k ride, then Hualien City tour before day 10's 100km road race. I'm sure I won't be doing that - so I hope I get lots of great pictures watching it! Last day has us on a 30km mountain ride. Not sure what any of these rides look like, but I hope my leg and freshly starting to be active body can participate in all these challenges!

Leave either for home on the 25th, or I'll extend it to try and go to Taichung by myself - and visit a bicycle factory.