Taking your breath away in Taroko

Day 6 in Taroko National Park deserves a second entry for this Blog. I think I said it before, but it's the most beautiful place I've ever seen. Takes your breath away. I'll try to show pictures, and use the right adjectives, but you'd have to see it to believe it.

We drove up and down a number of times, and most rode up and then all rode bikes down the red highlighted portion of the canyon (22km). First night was in the serene Leader Hotel, off on the Southern side of the canyon up a very steep road. The next day after riding the gorge we were driven to Silks Place. A luxury hotel that also deserved more time for one to appreciate it.

At the Leader Hotel's breakfast we saw this photo of the same location we rode rode the day before in Hualien, with Typhoon waves crashing the breakwater walls. We seem to be a group that skirts all the bad stuff, rides in the rain, and has the luck of having a fantastic tour leader, stunning accommodations and group dynamic that makes me sing. We are already family, and already having a trip of a lifetime.

Leader Lodge is a peaceful retreat that one night is not enough to soak it in. We met a nice couple from Australia - that saw monkey's on the Bamboo Nature Path. Alas none of us were able to get the timing right, but we knew they were there. Leaves that could wrap around you like a skirt with their huge jurassic park water catching scale that was hard to believe.

Just when you were admiring size, you might accidentally run into a somewhat colorful spider, that is the size of your hand from toe to toe. Do Spiders have toes? I hope not actually.

THE RIDE!

We adjusted bikes from another "Giant Cycling Station" below the National Park entrance and began the day's adventure. I assembled any blinky light I could, as the some of the tunnels were frighteningly dark. Surprisingly it was not a rainy day, which the group was not used to, but appreciated! It also seemed traffic was less than the day before when we drove up.

The girls coordinated in our Taiwan Cycling Festival Jersey's, the retina burning colors were hopefully going to keep us alive from the double decker buses rounding corners over the double yellow line, if there was a double yellow. Safety was on my mind. Niamh was on my mind, as she was a super novice rider, and this descent could get fast, wet, technical w/ a mere guard rail to keep you from the cliff diving exit possible. Kate was equipt with here GoPro helmet cam, and if we can get it to reduce file size - I will post the most amazing video of riding through this paradise.

When there were no cars- it was the dreamiest ride you can imagine. Waterfalls on all sides, steep marble swaths going up thousands of feet. Lush green plants with butterflies finding mates and pollen in tiny and large bright flowers.

Every tunnel had it's own personality. Different lighting, no lighting (yes a dark tunnel forced us all to "use the force" & pray it would all work out. Didn't breath for several seconds of total overcoming fear).

When you look at this picture of carved out overhangs and tunnels - t's easy to fantasize about the architects and laborers that built the road. The first pathways were built 1644-1911 during the Ching Dynasty. Rebuilt by the Japanese becoming a highway. In 1932 the Tunnel works were completed.

Self portrait, as with most these images, was taken while riding. It was a fun easy descent, other than a few blind corners, water draining water fall surprises at ends of tunnels or along the overhangs we rode under like awnings. Happy is an understatement of how I felt leaning left and right and looking everywhere as I easily rolled along the most amazing space I've been lucky to ride in.

AFTER THE RIDE

Back at the highest point in Taroko we went, there was a colorful bridge that beckoned you to cross it and pass under the bright red entrance gate to Heaven Summit Pagoda. The silty grey water of the Liwu river below was super fast and intimidating. Boulders the size of RV's. The parks 100 peaks of up to 3,742 meters rise around you, hidden by low clouds, peaking out to surprise you. The gate backed by cement tiles that were backwards swastikas. Which alarm the average American, but are actually representing the Sun.

Up many stairs, which is a theme in general I find in Taiwan, something the average physically fit, injury free human might not notice, were shrines. Being that I've only started successfully managing stairs in the last month, post leg surgery - this was always a personal moment of choice, when I would approach another long ladder of stairs. I'd choose to call it a non-issue or physical therapy with a prize at the top! Usually a Pagoda, or as in this path, a couple of stunning golden Buddha's!

The stairs are so worth this view, and structures that are lovingly taken care of. Bright colors contrast with the almost monochromatic background of fog and deep greens. Said a little prayer here.

We all returned to our next night at another new amazing hotel, the Silks Place. Huge rooms with dreamy bathrooms. We all sighed at the site of the free standing tub. Really we are all getting ruined for future travel.

(images of me riding were taken with

my waterproof camera by Mark Blacknell)

Didn't bring enough swimsuits

Remnants of a Typhoon (Meg?!) in Philippines are making this soaked adventure. Only 2 sports bras in my luggage are like soaked wash rags, I'm down to my one swimsuit for under garments. Seriously!

HUALIEN (yesterday - day 4)

Arrived late at night, after several u-turns, 2 instruction queries and driving along dizzying narrow roads with troughs of water like flumes that line every street - in Hualien. Dinner was on a hillside before that - and apparently it was hard to navigate to and from. But a stunning view, and family style food that was very very good, and like most other cultures than our own, with heads and feet still attached. I'm eating vegetarian on the trip - with some fish sprinkled in. This is apparently unusual - at least for my guide, and every day he asks and points towards me... "shall I order a special Vegetarian meal for you?" For some reason it's not as complicated for Mark Blacknell - who is a vegetarian... but for me, since it was a surprise, our guide hasn't gotten used to the idea that I TOO need to stay away from mystery meat.

Anyhow... I digress... that drive was long but fun w/ my comrades. The hotel is obviously new and geared towards cycling tourism, and has an Aegan theme with marble and white walls. A beautiful place to lay our heads after a brief walk to the sea... which is yards away.

Well yards like maybe 50 yards? Anyhow... the waves ARE HUGE, and it's a shore break that would warn the craziest of surfers. I make the mistake in the morning of opening up the wind tunnel causing window... and while skyping my husband a rainstorm comes through... and I notice later that all things within a yard of said window... have puddles in or on or around them.

I'm making this a long story... so here is the nutshell while I have some wireless connection to tell it. A "GIANT SHOP" - like they all are - is nearby. It's raining hard, and we go there to get bikes. Then we ride in torrential rain along the seashore into the city of Hualien and back This is what we saw, and it was photographed between heavy heavy rain and wind gusts that made me feel I was riding at 14% grade up a hill. We were all smiles - as it was funny, fun, and beautiful in many parts, the ocean was seriously... I'm going to use George's word from Seinfield... FIERCE!

Checking out the merchandising of Topeak and Cateye on the walls of the shop. Making sure I represent Cupertino in my jersey from Vance.

(the owner... and yes I know him :-) which is a local joke btw.)

Self portrait - the rain is super hard, and it's difficult to catch this.

I'm so stoked I have a water proof camera!

Took a side trip up a paver/tile strewn path

to an abandoned who-knows-what (old military spot or former park)

Path diverts thru a shanty town of traditional housing

and narrow ally's along the ocean briefly.

Pathway leaves seawall to cut under a huge factory - perhaps cement plant,

lined with Escalade sized granite chunks - and flooding low spots.

Here Mark Blacknell is riding through stream of runoff.

Sure - why not?! Sign points to ugly construction and industry.

CONTRAST-BIKE PATHS

Now that I've ridden several of these paths, and attended the opening ceremony with the officials that are driven to create these recreational paradises, some opinions have come to mind. It's a paradox of the tourism bureau promoting this and photo opportunities, parks and paths that have finished areas with marble... and signage - are right next to under construction, ugly, third world Country looking areas that stink of the city dump. Saw a rat running across the street and into my path just as I was pondering this contrast. Beautiful "Giant Cycling Stations" juxtapositioned (is that a word?), to enormous debri. The main constant is friendly people, and perfect temperatures.

The beautiful parts of the path are paradisal.

Shanty homes right on the path are still shining with creative pride in their collected junk.

DROVE TO TAROKO

Well we scurried off from the Bay View Hotel - to drive to Taroko Gorge. This is truly the most beautiful breath taking place I have ever seen in my life. And it deserves it's own blog entry. This picture shows where I'm typing from right now. I'm the center cabin- the room on the right.

If for any reason I die in the typhoon's torrential downpour that cause a flash flood today as we ride down the Gorge's canyon dangerously narrow roads and stunning tunnels. Just know that I'm so incredibly happy, and am in the most beautiful place in the world - and that I am lucky!