BIKE SHOPS & PALACE'S - Day 7 continued

"New Orca: Breath deeply, it's just a bike"

Put a bunch of bike geeks in bike shops, good luck getting them out!

Several flagship bike shops in a row shined like jewelry stores in a high-end shopping district. Merchandising was so well thought out in most with well lit displays, including floors decals with bike path symbols not just decorate, but for testing a bike indoors, taking it for a spin. Giant, Aster, Orbea, and Merida were the shops we spent time in. Super friendly staff's were a little uncomfortable with why a group of 5 English speaking American's descended upon their quiet shops. They spoke nearly no English at all and appreciated it when I approached them with my business card, and would ask for theirs. I asked if I could take photos, and checked out beautiful bikes, bike graphics, and clothing and accessories.

I'd try to point out interesting things to our novice cyclist Canadian Niamh, and then make sure that Mark Villegas would see the crank arms in gold anodized bliss. Mark Blacknell and I tried to make small purchases at each, a magazine, a flashing "Scully" handlebar light, something to show a gesture of thanks to them, and get a souvenir. They often gave us a 10% discount in return for our efforts, I'm guessing because we were in the same industry. To my surprise of being in the Country that most the products were made, I couldn't find gloves in my size, in the women's section. All XS or Large. An inventory mistake in my mind, but I imagine they had bikes in all sizes instead, and some accessories were 2nd priority.

A new favorite. The beautiful Orbea Diva.This seat post clamp had me impressed even before I lifted her off the ground knowing she'd be sub 16lbs.

I loved the women's lines of clothing, often marrying everyday wear

with high performance, decent looks to boot!

We are so used to the look of our Giro Helmets,

that this exotic honeycomb helmet had us mesmerized for a bit.

Took this for my friends in Marketing at both Cat Eye and Topeak,

their walls were looking familiar and clean and well planned and stocked!

Couldn't help but be drawn to this Giant matte pink bike on the end, the

raised box display with striping in lights was effective and beautiful.

With only hand gestures and smiles, the Merida staff installed the battery

and indicated my discount for purchasing, and were very happy to be in the picture. Most anybody we met in Taiwan was friendly and all smiles.

To this day, I never got used to men and women covering their mouths with protective gear. Seeing the mannequin is fashioned this way simply made me smile, they knew their target market!

Somebody please explain to me how multiple stem spacers for this Giraffe of a head tube and bizarre geometry is a benefit? Many of the bikes were not the classic triangle, but lower stand-over height, smaller wheels, and awkward looking stems and head tubes. I can only assume it's for fitting onto the train, your house, or easy nimble entry and and exit over a lower top tube. Too ugly for my tastes, but function should lead form I suppose.

_________________________

HOTEL SWITCH

Turns out a small scheduling problem that could have been huge for ourselves, was solved when John worked his magic, and got us into an even better hotel after we learned original was not booked for the correct day. The alternative he found, happened to be the one where most the Pro Cyclists were staying, and whom we'd meet at the Press Conference the next day.

Mark Blacknell looks for wireless access as we wait for check-in.

We arrived at our new destination. Yes, disappointed we wouldn't get our 1 of potential 2 times we'd stay at the same hotel more than one night, as this "every night a different hotel" was wearing on one's ability to organize and repack a suitcase, but any negativity left after we landed at the The Palais de Chine. In a tall building with an Apple store at it's base, it already gained points with all of us "Apple Heads" at first glance. We weren't prepared for the sophistication of this luxurious, less than a year old hotel. French, artistic and classy with plush features like libraries in alcoves along the hallways, paneled ceilings, even curved ceilings. Lobby with large rough cut stone as a backdrop, couches and seats that looked of a high-end brothel or smoking room that only the finest in Europe could be imagined to be sporting a glass of brandy or port on. Yet... once again, getting alcohol to match the tempting scene, deemed a large challenge, nearing impossible. *sigh*, the only touch missing to us, were nice hotel bars. I was starting to feel self conscious that I desired a good drink other than cheap 7-11 bought beer. And I was starting to feel like this culture was making the effort to fit in and gather tourism momentum, but only with surface and appearance level of knowledge. Where were the hospitality managers that understood travel, vacation, luxury and a good high-end drink go together?

Check-in was on the 4th floor, maybe the 6th, it all blurred together at this point. It was also useless to try and remember your room numbers. Luckily we'd all try to write them down when we were handed our keys, and often could remember everybody's but our own. Meeting times were agree'd to, and off we each went to try and not unpack so much as to make the early morning a chore to re-pack, and try to go wash the travel and tired eyes off w/ a quick shower and change. Often we'd gather in somebody's room to chat pre dinner, and this time it ended up mine. A quick catch up and comparing room amenities with each other, sometimes sharing a Taiwan Beer. Laughing together at the complicated lighting systems, and enlightening another as to what we learned. "Oh... that's how you connected to the internet", or "how do you flush the toilet", "How did you get your lights to turn off?" were common discussions. This pattern formed early on, and grew, as the group liked to share everything, and liked to be together. Luckily, we were usually roomed on the same floor.

This is a lounge area screaming to enjoy spirits, we did finally get some

wine to sit in this space and soak it in a bit.

Kate, Mark and Naimh hang in my room and try to connect with our worlds at home before dinner.

PARTY OF 6 FOR DINNER PLEASE

We were readying for a walk to a famous "night market" that I had heard about before the trip, and to get a "traditional meal". John found a restaurant after whisking us through a quieter than normal night market... as the rain was on and off and drizzling at this point. The local cuisine was a large flat grill that they cooked in front of you and you practically ate off of. As usual, Mark Blacknell and I were the outcasts on the end with our ever burdening request for a vegetarian meal, but I was always glad for the decision. I would nibble on fish when I felt like it, but didn't take to the mystery meat. Mark Villegas was an expert chopstick handler, and in the caring fashion that we all started to have for each other, sometimes would help me if I couldn't separate something out, and manage to serve anything onto my plate. I had always thought I was not so bad at chopsticks, but put a wet greasy noodle or shiny bean in front of me, and I might accidentally catapult it into your eye. Separating fish from skin was my most ungraceful, so usually I just didn't try.

This meal was fun, the cooks very local and between their cell phone calls and lack of interaction, I think they added more oil to the process. My belly was not happy as we walked back, as the grease was landing in my belly, we each retired to our glamorous rooms, to digest in our privacy, and get ready for the big "Press Conference" day in the morning. Bags packed and down to the check out by 8 or something like that. So breakfast at 7 or 7:30. They all blend together, but all of the morning calls seemed too early - especially with bags packed.

Pathways and Patterns. Leave Hualien for Taipei

(Part one of Day 7) Our last moments in the Gorge were via our bus, which didn't fade my childlike enthusiasms for spotting waterfalls high up on cliff hillsides that exposed themselves as the clouds eased off. One of our group had a stand-off with a monkey in the morning, others went monkey hunting along secret pathways and came up empty, but full with the memories of seeing the clouds lift over the Pagoda, hillsides and our modern hotel (Silks Place) in the foreground. I found myself introspective as we zig zagged through this magical canyon of marble. The group packed up from the hotel with anticipation of a contrast to our current environment, one filled with professional cyclists interactions, bike shops, and the hustle of a dense city full of culture.

(photo by Mark Blacknell www.blacknell.net)

First stop before flying out was literally 10 minutes at a beach. Only a long walk or easy bike ride from the previous stay at Bay View Hotel in Hualien. But now, a weather phenomenon, it was calm. "Typhoon Megi" still circled nearby, and we had no idea that she'd be affecting the rest of our trips itinerary - in a big way. So far we were mostly on schedule, with a few cancellations such as real river rafting, paragliding and some hikes we'd hope to do were closed do to rock slides in the canyon itself.

IF YOU HAD 10 MINUTES

Our guide John gave us these whole 10 minutes at a beautiful beach full of small grey and white flat rocks, with calm small waves hitting shore. Immensely different from any of our water views before, including waves crashing breakwaters 3-4 stories tall and spray that looked like Old Faithful in Yellowstone. What to do when you are given such a deadline to experience a beautiful coastline... leave a sculpture behind for the next visitors. Rocks had white streaks of perhaps marble or quartz. Graphic lines... strings... that were asking to be formed into something. An Andy Goldworthy inspired pattern was my obvious choice to leave behind. A dash to the water for my ritual of splashing salt water on my face for a quick baptism was not the smartest, as my sandals remained wet with salt water for the rest of the journey. It was worth the short visit, the surprise of finally seeing the sun and some blue sky, with gorgeous blue green warm water as a back drop. A welcome change, even for the limited moment we had.

(Mark Villegas spends his time slot proving his skills go beyond just cycling)

(More often than not, you find yourself walking on a tapestry of marble scraps, arranged artistically, yet going unnoticed because your attention was up at the views of mountains, tree's and ocean. Apparently we were in the land of Marble. Finally saw signs of the quarry's and mountain top mining from the air on our flight.)

FLY TO TAIPEI

The airport was nearby, and practically abandoned. We tipped our bus driver for the last few days of shuttling us around, and walked through the polished marble echo chamber of simply the most empty airport of it's size and design I'd ever waited in. The short flight was lined with beautiful views to the left of the East Coastline, we were able to see the entrance to the Gorge where we just spent time, and the highway that is barely etched into the side of the steep coastline. Luckily this time we weren't forced to sit in front of the prisoners... but the flight attendants were like mean Nun's at a Catholic school with constant reprimanding if we used our cameras. Apparently we couldn't even take pictures of the coastline. We knew not to at the airport, as it shared the space with a military base, but the worry we'd use our phones instead of just the video or cameras became laughable as they would appear out of no-where, as soon as we were tempted. Luckily I got a few pictures before the verbal slaps. Otherwise they smiled and were beautiful attendants, with pleasant demeanors. I imagine, they acted under strict orders to keep us "in-line".

As soon as we approached the Northern tip near Taipei... it was obvious rain was back in our picture. Bumpy approach, windy, rainy gray. None of us seemed to mind, our gear wasn't dry yet, and it was still warm on this tropical feeling island. Plans to visit Taipei 101- which was once the World's Tallest Building, now the 2nd to their disappointment, was postponed in hopes of a clear view tomorrow.

AS LONG AS WE ARE HERE... LET'S EAT!

Schedule changes were normal - and we all went with the flow, and knew it could only mean a different adventure. Visiting bike shops once they opened for the day, became the new mission, along with experiencing my favorite meal of the entire trip, at a Japanese restaurant for sushi, Saki and tasty treats. (hopefully this map will help you find it on your own visit!)

A modern restaurant with fabulous interior design, including a fountain with the same rocks we'd just left behind at the pebble filled beach. Bottles used for chandeliers were right up my repurposing ally, they were lovely and modern! Walls of bottles lit in red and blue lights, stone sinks. Tasty food other than the standard "Cabbage and Seaweed" (actually some kind of greens I called seaweed) - that had already grown old on my self induced vegetarian diet w/ sprinkles of fish mixed in.

Well satisfied and perhaps buzzed from the Saki we went to experience foot rubs for a treat (www.kinraku.com.tw) while we awaited bike shops to open. It was still early, and finding things to do before a hotel could take us, and out of the rain, was John's mission. We loved our options, other than fatigue setting in, I still craved a good 1/2 day at a hotel to get caught up on blogging, and sleep. I never did get that 1/2 day at a hotel, and it's okay as the group wouldn't let me opt out of any of the "events" - and I was glad to go whenever I had fought the urge to just stay and sleep. I really didn't want to miss a thing!

FRIENDS

Everything was interesting, everything was clean (for the most part) and everything remarkable! The group was growing close and caring for each other's well being. We laughed so hard each day deeming any Pilates unnecessary. Between Canadian Niamh's sense of sarcasm and bewilderment that we would want to ride bikes far or hotels of our caliper didn't have bars, to Bike Hugger Mark's rise and falls of sugar and adorable fixation to metal objects - anodized or not, then Blacknell's observations and sometimes embarrassment of us, mixed with dry wit and great sense of direction, and finally to Kate's enthusiasm and high energy including singing with me at other's expenses... I was in some kind of school girls dream of hanging with my new best friends. We even got John, our guide, to sing his first ever English song he learned as a boy "You are my Sunshine"!

Taking your breath away in Taroko

Day 6 in Taroko National Park deserves a second entry for this Blog. I think I said it before, but it's the most beautiful place I've ever seen. Takes your breath away. I'll try to show pictures, and use the right adjectives, but you'd have to see it to believe it.

We drove up and down a number of times, and most rode up and then all rode bikes down the red highlighted portion of the canyon (22km). First night was in the serene Leader Hotel, off on the Southern side of the canyon up a very steep road. The next day after riding the gorge we were driven to Silks Place. A luxury hotel that also deserved more time for one to appreciate it.

At the Leader Hotel's breakfast we saw this photo of the same location we rode rode the day before in Hualien, with Typhoon waves crashing the breakwater walls. We seem to be a group that skirts all the bad stuff, rides in the rain, and has the luck of having a fantastic tour leader, stunning accommodations and group dynamic that makes me sing. We are already family, and already having a trip of a lifetime.

Leader Lodge is a peaceful retreat that one night is not enough to soak it in. We met a nice couple from Australia - that saw monkey's on the Bamboo Nature Path. Alas none of us were able to get the timing right, but we knew they were there. Leaves that could wrap around you like a skirt with their huge jurassic park water catching scale that was hard to believe.

Just when you were admiring size, you might accidentally run into a somewhat colorful spider, that is the size of your hand from toe to toe. Do Spiders have toes? I hope not actually.

THE RIDE!

We adjusted bikes from another "Giant Cycling Station" below the National Park entrance and began the day's adventure. I assembled any blinky light I could, as the some of the tunnels were frighteningly dark. Surprisingly it was not a rainy day, which the group was not used to, but appreciated! It also seemed traffic was less than the day before when we drove up.

The girls coordinated in our Taiwan Cycling Festival Jersey's, the retina burning colors were hopefully going to keep us alive from the double decker buses rounding corners over the double yellow line, if there was a double yellow. Safety was on my mind. Niamh was on my mind, as she was a super novice rider, and this descent could get fast, wet, technical w/ a mere guard rail to keep you from the cliff diving exit possible. Kate was equipt with here GoPro helmet cam, and if we can get it to reduce file size - I will post the most amazing video of riding through this paradise.

When there were no cars- it was the dreamiest ride you can imagine. Waterfalls on all sides, steep marble swaths going up thousands of feet. Lush green plants with butterflies finding mates and pollen in tiny and large bright flowers.

Every tunnel had it's own personality. Different lighting, no lighting (yes a dark tunnel forced us all to "use the force" & pray it would all work out. Didn't breath for several seconds of total overcoming fear).

When you look at this picture of carved out overhangs and tunnels - t's easy to fantasize about the architects and laborers that built the road. The first pathways were built 1644-1911 during the Ching Dynasty. Rebuilt by the Japanese becoming a highway. In 1932 the Tunnel works were completed.

Self portrait, as with most these images, was taken while riding. It was a fun easy descent, other than a few blind corners, water draining water fall surprises at ends of tunnels or along the overhangs we rode under like awnings. Happy is an understatement of how I felt leaning left and right and looking everywhere as I easily rolled along the most amazing space I've been lucky to ride in.

AFTER THE RIDE

Back at the highest point in Taroko we went, there was a colorful bridge that beckoned you to cross it and pass under the bright red entrance gate to Heaven Summit Pagoda. The silty grey water of the Liwu river below was super fast and intimidating. Boulders the size of RV's. The parks 100 peaks of up to 3,742 meters rise around you, hidden by low clouds, peaking out to surprise you. The gate backed by cement tiles that were backwards swastikas. Which alarm the average American, but are actually representing the Sun.

Up many stairs, which is a theme in general I find in Taiwan, something the average physically fit, injury free human might not notice, were shrines. Being that I've only started successfully managing stairs in the last month, post leg surgery - this was always a personal moment of choice, when I would approach another long ladder of stairs. I'd choose to call it a non-issue or physical therapy with a prize at the top! Usually a Pagoda, or as in this path, a couple of stunning golden Buddha's!

The stairs are so worth this view, and structures that are lovingly taken care of. Bright colors contrast with the almost monochromatic background of fog and deep greens. Said a little prayer here.

We all returned to our next night at another new amazing hotel, the Silks Place. Huge rooms with dreamy bathrooms. We all sighed at the site of the free standing tub. Really we are all getting ruined for future travel.

(images of me riding were taken with

my waterproof camera by Mark Blacknell)

All is well despite Megi

We had to re-route several of our activities- including the unfortunate cancellation if The Taiwan Cup Pro Race. Avoiding mud slides, washed out roads, stuck trains and Buddhist temples collapsing, we had an easy trip. More blog entry's to come including interviews with Pro riders and factory visits.

Day 5 to day 6 at Taroko National Park

The Leader Hotel is off of the main Taroko Gorge road. You leave the winding miracle of tunnels, overhangs and waterfalls to steeply drive up to an oasis run by the Aboriginal tribe "Bruwan", that are the true Natives of Taiwan.

The stunning view is breathtaking. Steep walls of greenery and waterfalls surround you.

The next day we were shuttled up to the "top" - or 22km from the Giant Bicycle Rental facility outside the bottom of the canyon near the entry gate. The fitter and hardcore of the group rode up, and Niamh and myself were shuttled to the "top" - and waiting near the Yellow bridge. I decided to ride down a few tunnels and switchbacks to meet the group for a short ascent before the full descent. Wow! Puddles splashing or the waterfalls were the only rain this time. I held my camera at all times, and rode with the extra large smile that I can't wipe off my face.

Didn't bring enough swimsuits

Remnants of a Typhoon (Meg?!) in Philippines are making this soaked adventure. Only 2 sports bras in my luggage are like soaked wash rags, I'm down to my one swimsuit for under garments. Seriously!

HUALIEN (yesterday - day 4)

Arrived late at night, after several u-turns, 2 instruction queries and driving along dizzying narrow roads with troughs of water like flumes that line every street - in Hualien. Dinner was on a hillside before that - and apparently it was hard to navigate to and from. But a stunning view, and family style food that was very very good, and like most other cultures than our own, with heads and feet still attached. I'm eating vegetarian on the trip - with some fish sprinkled in. This is apparently unusual - at least for my guide, and every day he asks and points towards me... "shall I order a special Vegetarian meal for you?" For some reason it's not as complicated for Mark Blacknell - who is a vegetarian... but for me, since it was a surprise, our guide hasn't gotten used to the idea that I TOO need to stay away from mystery meat.

Anyhow... I digress... that drive was long but fun w/ my comrades. The hotel is obviously new and geared towards cycling tourism, and has an Aegan theme with marble and white walls. A beautiful place to lay our heads after a brief walk to the sea... which is yards away.

Well yards like maybe 50 yards? Anyhow... the waves ARE HUGE, and it's a shore break that would warn the craziest of surfers. I make the mistake in the morning of opening up the wind tunnel causing window... and while skyping my husband a rainstorm comes through... and I notice later that all things within a yard of said window... have puddles in or on or around them.

I'm making this a long story... so here is the nutshell while I have some wireless connection to tell it. A "GIANT SHOP" - like they all are - is nearby. It's raining hard, and we go there to get bikes. Then we ride in torrential rain along the seashore into the city of Hualien and back This is what we saw, and it was photographed between heavy heavy rain and wind gusts that made me feel I was riding at 14% grade up a hill. We were all smiles - as it was funny, fun, and beautiful in many parts, the ocean was seriously... I'm going to use George's word from Seinfield... FIERCE!

Checking out the merchandising of Topeak and Cateye on the walls of the shop. Making sure I represent Cupertino in my jersey from Vance.

(the owner... and yes I know him :-) which is a local joke btw.)

Self portrait - the rain is super hard, and it's difficult to catch this.

I'm so stoked I have a water proof camera!

Took a side trip up a paver/tile strewn path

to an abandoned who-knows-what (old military spot or former park)

Path diverts thru a shanty town of traditional housing

and narrow ally's along the ocean briefly.

Pathway leaves seawall to cut under a huge factory - perhaps cement plant,

lined with Escalade sized granite chunks - and flooding low spots.

Here Mark Blacknell is riding through stream of runoff.

Sure - why not?! Sign points to ugly construction and industry.

CONTRAST-BIKE PATHS

Now that I've ridden several of these paths, and attended the opening ceremony with the officials that are driven to create these recreational paradises, some opinions have come to mind. It's a paradox of the tourism bureau promoting this and photo opportunities, parks and paths that have finished areas with marble... and signage - are right next to under construction, ugly, third world Country looking areas that stink of the city dump. Saw a rat running across the street and into my path just as I was pondering this contrast. Beautiful "Giant Cycling Stations" juxtapositioned (is that a word?), to enormous debri. The main constant is friendly people, and perfect temperatures.

The beautiful parts of the path are paradisal.

Shanty homes right on the path are still shining with creative pride in their collected junk.

DROVE TO TAROKO

Well we scurried off from the Bay View Hotel - to drive to Taroko Gorge. This is truly the most beautiful breath taking place I have ever seen in my life. And it deserves it's own blog entry. This picture shows where I'm typing from right now. I'm the center cabin- the room on the right.

If for any reason I die in the typhoon's torrential downpour that cause a flash flood today as we ride down the Gorge's canyon dangerously narrow roads and stunning tunnels. Just know that I'm so incredibly happy, and am in the most beautiful place in the world - and that I am lucky!